In daily practice, it is increasingly evident that skin and emotions are much more closely linked than previously assumed. Flare-ups of chronic dermatoses under stress, “reactive” sensitivity in anxious patients, and the impact of sleep quality on regeneration are all manifestations of the skin–brain axis at work. Against this background, neurocosmetics are no longer just a marketing category but a scientifically grounded approach that uses cutaneous pathways to support a person’s psychophysiological state. A recent review in Clinics in Dermatology analyzes the mechanisms behind this connection and the role of neurocosmetics in maintaining balance between the skin and the brain [1].

The skin as a neuroendocrine organ and the skin–brain axis

The skin is a complex sensory organ with its own neuroendocrine system. Keratinocytes, melanocytes, and immune cells can synthesize and respond to beta-endorphins, dopamine, serotonin, substance P, and other mediators. Through a network of nerve endings and signaling molecules, a continuous dialogue is maintained between the skin and the central nervous system — the skin–brain axis. Dysregulation of this system contributes to the pathogenesis of atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and rosacea, in which emotional state and stress play a critical role [1, 2].

Within this model, neurocosmetics serve as tools to support and restore skin–brain communication. The goal is not only to improve barrier function, but also to dampen stress-related skin responses, reduce subjective discomfort, and help patients perceive their condition and appearance in a different, more balanced way.

Practical toolkit: what is already in use

Skincare professionals already have several active ingredient groups that can influence the skin–brain axis.

• Neuropeptides and muscle-relaxing peptides

Acetyl hexapeptide-8 (argireline) is one of the most prominent examples. It mimics the effects of acetylcholine antagonists, reduces neurotransmitter release at the neuromuscular junction, and decreases muscle tension. Clinically, this is associated with visible softening of expression lines and a subjective sensation of facial relaxation. In everyday practice, it may be used as an adjunct to injectable treatments or in gentle “anti-stress” skincare protocols [3].

The review also mentions palmitoyl peptides as a broader class of synthetic peptides conjugated to palmitic acid to improve barrier passage. Within this group, there are molecules with anti-inflammatory properties and the ability to enhance the skin’s resilience to external stressors and its reparative potential. The authors do not specify specific amino acid sequences, emphasizing the general anti-inflammatory and restorative profile of this class instead. For practice, it is essential to remember that the exact effects depend on each peptide’s structure, so individual formulations should be evaluated based on manufacturer data and available clinical evidence [3].

Copper tripeptide-1, when incorporated into skincare products, improves hydration, reduces transepidermal water loss, and supports regeneration. For the patient, this translates into less tightness and stinging and a more resilient skin condition under stress and environmental challenges.

• Modulators of neurotransmitter pathways

In neurocosmetics, neurotransmitter modulators aim to “calm” the skin by modulating cellular activity and signaling pathways. Gamma-aminobutyric acid (GABA) is described as an ingredient that regulates keratinocyte growth and suppresses neurosensory activity [3]. In practice, this may reduce sensations such as burning, tingling, and hyper-reactivity upon product application, directly improving the comfort of skincare routines.

Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is considered a multifunctional ingredient that supports neurotransmitter pathways, strengthens the barrier function, and reduces inflammation [3]. As a result, baseline redness and reactivity can decrease, and the skin becomes more tolerant to external and internal stressors. Patients often perceive this as a more even tone and a feeling of “calmer” skin, which positively affects self-image.

• The cutaneous endocannabinoid system and CBD

Cannabinoid receptors CB1 and CB2 are widely expressed in the skin. Agonists of these receptors have demonstrated potential to reduce itch, pain, and inflammation, as well as to modulate the perception of discomfort. Cannabidiol (CBD) is discussed as an active ingredient with anti-inflammatory properties that modulates the skin’s endocannabinoid system [3].

In practical terms, formulations containing CBD and other cannabinoid components may be used as part of strategies to reduce itch and other unpleasant sensations in patients with inflammatory or sensitive skin conditions. When persistent itch or pain can be relieved, the impact extends beyond the clinical picture: quality of life, stress levels, and patients’ attitudes toward their disease and appearance also change.

• Sensory modulators and TRP channels

Another critical group comprises sensory modulators that act on receptors responsible for temperature and tactile sensations. These actives target mechanoreceptors and transient receptor potential (TRP) channels, thereby modifying thermal sensitivity and tactile perception. The TRP family of ion channels in the membranes of sensory cells detects heat, cold, pain, and other stimuli. Activation of specific TRP channels by certain molecules produces warmth and vasodilation, while others elicit a cooling sensation. In the review, vanillyl butyl ether is mentioned as an ingredient that activates thermoreceptors, induces warmth and vasodilation, and enhances sensory perception [1].

For clinical and aesthetic practice, this is relevant for two reasons. First, sensory modulators allow the practitioner to “tune” the subjective experience of a procedure: gentle warmth or pleasant coolness alone can lower anxiety and promote relaxation. Second, by altering sensory signals traveling from the skin to the central nervous system, it becomes possible to indirectly influence the emotional background, a core component of the anti-stress potential of neurocosmetics.

Microbiome, gut–skin–brain axis, and emotional balance

The microbiota–skin–brain axis is another promising link. Diversity and composition of the skin and gut microbiome are associated not only with barrier function and inflammation, but also with psycho-emotional status. Dysbiosis can activate systemic inflammatory pathways and trigger stress responses via the hypothalamic–pituitary–adrenal axis, worsening both skin manifestations and mood disorders [4].

Psychological stress, in turn, can alter the composition of the skin microbiota, creating a closed loop in which deterioration of skin condition and overall well-being reinforce each other. Microbiome-targeted products and topical postbiotics are therefore considered tools that may help break this loop: stabilizing barrier function and inflammation, reducing sensitivity, and thereby lowering the stress related to visible skin symptoms.

Looking ahead: AI and personalized, emotionally intelligent care

In the near future, personalization of neurocosmetic care will rely heavily on digital technologies and artificial intelligence. New models are being developed to detect emotional biomarkers using facial micro-expressions, thermal imaging, and stress- or fatigue-related changes in skin tone [5].

Wearable sensors play a key role in this ecosystem. These compact devices — such as smartwatches, rings, or biosensor patches — continuously monitor physiological parameters in real time. Skin conductance sensors reflect stress levels via sweat gland activity, optical sensors assess heart rate variability, and accelerometers track sleep quality and circadian rhythms. Emerging biosensors can even measure cortisol levels in sweat.

Combined with AI, this enables dynamic, “emotion-responsive” skincare routines. If the system detects elevated physiological stress or disrupted sleep, it can recommend the timely use of neuroactive topicals (e.g., containing CBD or neuropeptides) to help prevent skin reactivity and support emotional comfort at that moment. In this way, skincare evolves from a static routine into a responsive strategy aligned with the current state of the skin–brain axis [5].

Limitations and cautious optimism

Despite the clear potential of neurocosmetics, several limitations need to be acknowledged. Many formulations are still in preclinical or early clinical stages, and standardized protocols for assessing effects on cutaneous neuromediator levels and psycho-emotional outcomes are lacking. Studies often rely on patient self-reports, and the placebo effect in cosmetic research is powerful. Objective psychophysiological markers are rarely integrated into dermatologic protocols.

Furthermore, influencing emotional states through the skin raises safety and ethical concerns: clear communication of realistic effects, avoidance of manipulating expectations, and careful attention to the potential for psychological dependence on products are all essential. A multidisciplinary approach that brings together dermatology, neuroscience, psychology, and digital health expertise will help ensure that neurocosmetic tools are used responsibly [1, 5].

As robust clinical evidence accumulates, neurocosmetics may secure a stable place within integrative dermatology — as an approach that not only treats the skin, but also supports the skin–brain connection, improving patients’ well-being and self-perception [1, 2, 5].

References

1. Haykal D., Berardesca E., Kabashima K., Dréno B. Beyond beauty: neurocosmetics, the skin-brain axis, and the future of emotionally intelligent skincare. Clin Dermatol 2025; 43(5): 523–527.https://doi.org/10.1016/j.clindermatol.2025.05.002
2. Vidal Yucha S.E., Tamamoto K.A., Kaplan D.L. The importance of the neuro-immuno-cutaneous system in the design of human skin equivalents. Cell Prolif 2019; 52(6): e12677.
3. Rizzi V., Gubitosa J., Fini P., Cosma P. Neurocosmetics in skincare—the fascinating world of skin-brain connection: a review to explore ingredients, commercial products for skin aging, and cosmetic regulation. Cosmetics 2021; 8(3): 66.
4. Ferraretto A., Donetti E., García-Mena J., Pacheco-López G. The gut-skin-brain axis in health and disease. Front Nutr 2023; 10:1 155614.
5. Haykal D. Emerging and pioneering AI technologies in aesthetic dermatology: sketching a path toward personalized, predictive, and proactive care. Cosmetics 2024; 11(6): 206.