Hyaluronic acid (HA) is traditionally considered a key component of the dermis, yet its role in the epidermis is equally critical for skin health. In atopic dermatitis (AD), HA metabolism undergoes significant changes: instead of the usual long chains, short fragments predominate, which are less effective at retaining moisture and more actively promote inflammation. The imbalance between HA synthesis and degradation directly leads to epidermal barrier defects, dryness, and spongiosis—the characteristic edema seen during flare-ups. Understanding these mechanisms opens new perspectives on the use of topical and oral HA in the comprehensive management of patients with AD. Research breakdown and practical insights in our editorial note

  In daily practice, it is increasingly evident that skin and emotions are much more closely linked than previously assumed. Flare-ups of chronic dermatoses under stress, “reactive” sensitivity in anxious patients, and the impact of sleep quality on regeneration are all manifestations of the skin–brain axis at work. Against this background, neurocosmetics are no longer just a marketing category but a scientifically grounded approach that uses cutaneous pathways to support a person’s psychophysiological state. A recent review in Clinics in Dermatology analyzes the mechanisms behind this connection and the role of neurocosmetics in maintaining balance between the skin and the brain [1].   The skin as a neuroendocrine organ and the skin–brain axis The skin is a complex sensory organ with its own neuroendocrine system. Keratinocytes, melanocytes, and immune cells can synthesize and respond to beta-endorphins, dopamine, serotonin, substance P, and other mediators. Through a network of nerve endings and signaling molecules, a continuous...

Retinoids have long been a backbone for acne care and photoaging management, but the focus is shifting: it is not only about receptors and concentrations anymore. What happens on the skin surface and inside the follicle may matter too. A 2025 review suggests that the skin microbiome can participate in local vitamin A derivative metabolism: some microbes may increase the local pool of retinoic acid, while others may convert it back into less active forms. At the same time, “next‑generation retinoids” (such as RAR‑γ–selective agonists) and advanced delivery approaches (nanostructured lipid carriers, depot concepts, stimulus‑responsive gels) aim to reduce irritation and make outcomes more predictable. Practical take‑home: tolerability and results may depend on the molecule, the formulation, and the skin’s microbial context. Full breakdown and clinical takeaways in our editorial note.

Wrinkles are not only about photoaging and chronological time. Growing evidence suggests the skin microbiome is involved in molecular pathways that drive collagen and elastin degradation. With age, sebum levels and hydration decline, transepidermal water loss increases, and microbial composition shifts. These changes can sustain chronic inflammation and oxidative stress, activate signaling pathways that increase matrix metalloproteinase expression, and accelerate extracellular matrix breakdown. In this editorial note, we discuss how the microbiome is linked to MMP activity, why this can speed wrinkle formation, and what data exist on probiotics and postbiotics in the context of age-related skin changes. Complete analysis in our editorial note.

Hyaluronidase remains the key rescue option for overcorrection and vascular events that may occur after hyaluronic acid filler injections. Yet why is the clinical response so unpredictable? A 2025 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology suggests the answer lies mainly in filler architecture. Biphasic gels break down quickly at relatively low hyaluronidase doses, whereas monophasic fillers often require higher cumulative dosing and direct intralesional delivery into the implant. Another practical point is the enzyme’s short activity window in tissue, which appears to close sooner than many clinicians assume. We break down the key differences and the clinical takeaways for day-to-day practice.

We often explain acne in a simple way: more sebum at puberty, then bacteria and inflammation. But a 2025 review argues that acne can have an earlier “starting point” shaped by genetics. The key event may be a misstep in how sebaceous-gland precursor cells develop where the gland drains into the hair canal. If cells “choose the wrong path” or don’t move when they should, a comedone forms. Inflammation often comes later, as a response to the traffic jam already created inside the follicle. This framework helps clinicians explain why retinoids matter and why similar routines can lead to very different outcomes. Research takeaways and practice pearls — in our editorial note.

HIFU is most often associated with skin tightening. But what actually changes at the tissue level — and why do some patients describe the outcome as a “lift,” while others say their face looks “slimmer”? Until recently, that question didn’t have a clear, practical explanation. In a 2025 paper published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, the authors examine post-HIFU histologic changes at different target depths, correlate these findings with patient-reported outcomes, and arrive at a compelling answer. Please read the full breakdown in our editorial note.

Film-forming sprays (FFS) are rapidly gaining popularity in skin care and treatment. FFS is a liquid that, when sprayed onto the skin, forms a thin, transparent film. The base of FFS consists of polymers and solvents, with biologically active substances serving as the active ingredients. Polymers create a protective film on the skin's surface, helping to retain moisture and shield against direct contact with external irritants (bacteria, viruses, allergens, solid dust particles, etc.). The film also regulates the rate of release and delivery of active substances to the skin, providing a longer-lasting effect and reducing the frequency of application. This is especially important in the treatment of chronic skin diseases such as psoriasis and eczema, where prolonged and even application of medication is necessary. Our editorial note explores what FFS is and the new opportunities it presents.

  Cellulite is a problem familiar to many women. Its appearance is associated with changes in the subcutaneous fatty tissue: fat cells increase in size, forming bumps and indentations on the skin. These changes are caused by a complex interaction of various factors, including genetics, hormonal background, connective tissue structure, and microcirculation. As a result, fibrous septa are formed, which squeeze the fat lobes and worsen the appearance of the skin. There are various methods to fight cellulite — from cosmetic creams to invasive surgical procedures, but there is no ideal solution yet. A group of dermatologists from Brazil has proposed a new approach that combines a minimally invasive subcision technique with hyaluronic acid (HA). The essence of subcision is the gentle rupture of the fibrous septa that compresses the adipose tissue. This allows the fat lobes to be released and improves the appearance of the skin. However, simply tearing the septae is not enough — a void is created in its place, which needs to be filled. T...

Mycosporin-like amino acids (MAA) represent a promising class of natural bioactive compounds with a wide range of applications in the cosmetic industry. Their efficacy in UV protection and their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties make MAAs an attractive alternative to synthetic UV filters, especially considering their high safety. Our new editorial is dedicated to these fascinating natural compounds.

Botulinum toxin injections are a popular procedure, but they can have unexpected consequences. In our new post, we will describe a clinical case in which the misuse of atropine to treat diplopia following botulinum therapy led to serious complications. We will also discuss how to avoid such mistakes and what precautions should be taken to maintain eye health.

Aging is a vast field of research in which scientists actively try to unravel the causes and mechanisms of cell, tissue, and organ degradation over time. Various theories of aging exist, such as genetic, stochastic, telomere, and mitochondrial theories, each offering distinctive explanations for the physiological changes observed in organisms as they age. In this post, we will consider a new view of aging based on the autodigestion of body tissues under the action of digestive enzymes.

Bacterial resistance to antibiotics is a significant challenge in modern healthcare. The constant search for new treatments has led to the development of innovative phototherapy using metal-organic frameworks (MOFs). The latest technology offers effective and safe phototherapy dressings for treating infected wounds. Phototherapy dressings are safe, effective, and easy to use and can be an essential tool in the fight against infections. Our latest editorial describes this new technology and why it is receiving so much attention.

Production technologies and mechanisms of action Modern technologies have made it possible to expand the functionality of textiles significantly. The microencapsulation method, for example, is used to encapsulate active substances such as hyaluronic acid or plant extracts into capsules released by friction or temperature. This technology is used in the Skintex® product line of moisturizing and skin care products. The chemical grafting method allows molecules of active ingredients, such as probiotics or vitamins, to be bound to textile fibers. Devan Biotech's fabrics use this approach, which helps maintain the balance of the skin's microbiome. Studies have shown that probiotics in these fabrics stimulate the growth of beneficial microorganisms such as Staphylococcus epidermidis and inhibit the growth of pathogenic bacteria, including Staphylococcus aureus [1, 2]. Antimicrobial biotextiles enriched with silver or zinc ions act by interacting with bacterial membranes, disrupting their structure. This leads to the inhibition of metabo...

Modern technology continues transforming healthcare and appearance care, and artificial intelligence (AI) has become a key tool in this evolution. Cosmetology, dermatology, and aesthetic medicine already use AI to diagnose, personalize treatments, and optimize processes. Let's examine the current advances, implementation examples, and prospects for AI in these fields. Our new editorial provides more details and examples.

Botulinum toxin A (BTA) has long established itself as an effective agent in aesthetic medicine and in treating dermatologic diseases. BTA has demonstrated its therapeutic properties in treating rosacea, acne, and alopecia and is also used to improve post-surgical scarring. Recently, atopic dermatitis has been added to the list of potential indications for using BTA, which opens new horizons in treating this congenital dermatosis. A study published in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology in 2020 was an essential step in this direction. It is described in our post.

The role of the skin microbiome in promoting human health is becoming increasingly clear, and more details about its functions are emerging every year. Skin commensals modulate mucosal immune defenses and directly counteract pathogens, but their contribution to the physical integrity of the skin is poorly understood. A study by Zheng Y. et al. published in the Cell Host & Microbiome in 2022 showed that the common skin commensal Staphylococcus epidermidis contributes to skin barrier integrity in a very unusual way. This is the subject of our new post.

  The role of pH for skin health Enzymes of the stratum corneum, such as serine proteases and ceramidases, are active at specific pH values. These enzymes regulate the processes of keratinization and exfoliation, which promote skin renewal and maintain skin smoothness and elasticity [1]. pH also affects the skin microbiome's activity, including beneficial bacteria such as Staphylococcus epidermidis and Cutibacterium acnes. A slightly acidic environment prevents the overgrowth of pathogens such as Staphylococcus aureus, which can cause inflammatory diseases, including atopic dermatitis and acne [2].   Mechanisms of skin pH maintenance The skin has its mechanisms for maintaining acidity. These include: Free fatty acids in the hydrolipid mantle are formed by the breakdown of sebum triglycerides by enzymes of bacteria living in the ducts of the sebaceous glands. Production of sweat containing lactic acid and amino acids. Some of these substances remain part of the hydrolipidic mantle, while the stratum corneum absorbs others. Activat...

Vitiligo is a chronic skin disease characterized by loss of pigmentation due to the destruction of melanocytes. It is believed that the key role in the development of vitiligo is played by an autoimmune mechanism in which T-cells and cytokines are activated, causing the death of melanocytes. None of the currently known treatments for vitiligo provides complete and long-term restoration of pigmentation. With the advent of topical Janus kinase inhibitors, there is hope for recovery in vitiligo patients. This is discussed in our new post.

MicroRNA therapy, which emerged as an experimental treatment in the early 2000s, is based on regulating gene expression by interacting small RNAs with microRNA targets. This approach has already been used in treating chronic skin ulcers and hypertrophic scars and, in recent years, has been actively investigated in the context of acne. Our post describes how close we came to putting this method into practice.

Pilonidal disease is an inflammatory condition involving the formation of cysts or fistulas in the area of the intergluteal cleft due to inflammation of the hair follicles. It is often accompanied by pain and infection and may require surgical intervention. Standard therapy, consisting of hygiene, special creams, and mechanical depilation, can reduce the severity of the disease but cure it completely. The hope for patients has become laser hair removal. How it helps in solving this problem is described in our new post.

Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin disease that develops due to dysregulation of the microcirculation in the midface. The clinical manifestations of rosacea are erythema and a progressive inflammatory rash. Despite its prevalence (according to various estimates, rosacea affects up to 22% of the population), this dermatosis still needs to be fully understood, and standard treatments are only sometimes effective. Research in recent years has drawn attention to tranexamic acid, known for its effects on melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, to combat rosacea symptoms. These studies are described in our new post.

Trichotillomania (TTM) is a psychiatric disorder characterized by frequent, recurrent, and irresistible urges to pull hair from one's head, eyebrows, or other areas of the body. Cognitive behavioral therapy and antidepressants have traditionally been used to treat this disorder, but these treatments are not always successful. In recent years, research has emerged that looks at the use of injectable botulinum therapy in TTM patients. For details, see our new post.

Retinoids such as retinol and retinoic acid are widely used in anti-aging therapy because they stimulate cell renewal, collagen synthesis, and wrinkle elimination. However, their use is limited due to pronounced adverse reactions such as redness, dryness, flaking, and skin irritation, which are especially noticeable in people with sensitive skin. The search for safe alternatives with retinol-like effects remains an urgent task. Promising retinol substitutes include bakuchiol and Vigna aconitifolia bean extract. More about the retinol plant analogs study is in our post.

Why does hair turn gray, and can it be stopped? A new study has discovered a mysterious process that leads to hair color loss: when a person reaches a certain age, the melanocyte progenitor stem cells responsible for pigmentation get “stuck” in a transitional state and lose their function. What if this could be reversed? Scientists believe that by unlocking the secret of these “chameleon cells,” we can understand why we are graying and learn how to prevent graying. For details see our new post.

A balanced skin microbiome is one of the guarantors of skin health. Changes in the species composition of the microbiome may be one of the links in the pathogenesis of skin diseases or a consequence of them. For this reason, the skin microbiome is considered by many researchers and clinicians as one of the therapeutic targets that can be used to improve the health and aesthetic appeal of the skin. In our new post, we will discuss the effects of blue light on the skin microbiome composition of atopic patients and the prospects of its application for phototherapy of atopic dermatitis.

Green hair color indicates not only the boldness of the personality. In some cases, green hair coloration is a symptom of a disease called chlorotrichosis. The first cases of chlorotrichosis were described in 1654. At that time, the owners of "green hair" were copper workers engaged in copper processing. Today's chlorotrichosis patients are hapless pool-goers. What does copper have to do with it? How to avoid chlorotrichosis? Find out in our post.

Due to the secretions of eccrine, apocrine, and sebaceous glands, the axillae provide a moist and nutrient-rich habitat for many microorganisms. The appearance of odorless sweat is caused by the biotransformation of naturally occurring odorless secretions into volatile odorous molecules. In our new post, you will learn how the underarm microbiome changes during laser hair removal and how this affects the severity of sweat odor.

Living in a multinational world, we see the beauty of the human image in all its diversity. The combination of phenotypic traits endows each ethnic group with recognizable appearance features. As research shows, this also hides the skin's significant structural and functional features. Is it true that dark skin has more pronounced barrier properties, while light skin is drier and more fragile? This question has seriously interested scientists from Switzerland.

Hirsutism is an excessive growth of hair of the male type in women: lightly colored pubes transform into thick and pigmented terminal hairs above the upper lip, on the chin, in the sideburns, as well as on larger areas of the body — the lower abdomen, inner thighs, nipples, sternum, sacrum, and shoulders. Pathological hair loss is caused by diseases associated with hyperandrogenism or increased sensitivity of androgen receptors, which significantly complicates the long-term elimination of unwanted hair. Will the laser cope with this target? What does the effectiveness of laser hair removal for hirsutism depend on? You will find the answers in our new post.

Functional food is a powerful therapeutic tool that can be used to prevent and correct age-related skin changes. Functional foods offer health benefits beyond their nutritional value and positively impact health due to the high potency of their active ingredients. A wide range of functional foods of plant origin that, when consumed in the right amounts regularly, can reduce the signs of photoaging. In our new publication, you will learn about three vegetable products with the most impressive scientific evidence base — mango, almond, and avocado.

Unwanted hair is a significant aesthetic defect that is normal from the physiology point of view but can be perceived by the patient as a problem. The subjective factor — the beauty standards accepted in a particular society and the patient's psychological characteristics — play a decisive role in the attitude toward the problem of unwanted hair and the need for its elimination. However, in some cases, excessive hair growth is a warning sign indicating diseases. In our new post, you will learn about the different forms of excess hair growth and their causes.

Morbihan disease is a rare condition of unknown etiology characterized by persistent, dense, non-pitting erythematous swelling of the middle and upper third of the face. Morbihan disease is sometimes categorized as a special form of rosacea and is not amenable to traditional rosacea therapy. In July 2023, a clinical case study published in the Journal of Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology published an effective treatment for Morbihan disease using macrofocused high-intensity focus ultrasound (MF-HIFU) that significantly reduced swelling and erythema and decreased pain. Read more in our new post.

When looking for skin health, we are often faced with choosing between a variety of different dietary systems.  One such system is the vegan diet.  By eliminating all animal products — meat, fish, dairy, eggs, and even honey —a vegan diet relies solely on plant-based food sources. As a result, a very specific composition of nutrients is delivered to the body, which can significantly affect the skin's condition — both healthy and pathologic. In this context, the relationship between nutrition and dermatologic pathologies is particularly relevant. In this post, we will examine the relationship between vegan diet and psoriasis, one of the most common dermatologic diseases.

The discovery of niacinamide's potential in 1938, when researchers found its ability to cure pellagra in dogs, was a milestone in medical science. Since then, niacinamide, administered in doses far more than its vitamin requirement, has been used to treat many diseases and conditions, from protecting neurons and vascular cells from ischemic damage to preventing neurological disorders such as depression, Alzheimer's and Parkinson's diseases. In recent years, niacinamide has taken a leading position in modern dermatology. Known for its anti-aging and anti-inflammatory properties, this vitamin B3 derivative has become a popular ingredient in cosmetic products to improve skin health. However, as with many bioactive substances, niacinamide has its complexities and potential risks, especially when used in high dosages. The surprising and unexpected unwanted effects of niacinamide are discussed in our new post.

When we wish our loved ones a Happy New Year, we always wish them good health. One of the available measures to maintain or improve health is taking vitamins. The impact of vitamin deficiency on the body can sometimes be catastrophic and even life-threatening. One of the most "deficient" vitamins today is vitamin A. In 20% of the population of the developed world, the concentration of vitamin A in blood plasma and liver is below the norm. The consequences of vitamin A deficiency for the skin are the epidermal barrier weakening, decreased regenerative capacity of the skin, accelerated aging, decreased skin immunity, aggravation of chronic inflammatory diseases, hyperkeratosis, scaling, and itching. Since foods contain many nutrients and other health benefits, vitamin A needs should be met primarily through them. In our post, you will find recommendations on how to find the best food sources of vitamin A.

Vitamin A and its derivatives are among the top substances in modern skincare products. They are credited with many effects: wrinkle smoothing and improved healing, pigmentation reduction and sebum reduction, skin lifting, and even hair growth stimulation. Are these substances effective at solving such different problems? Let's put it this way: vitamin A has many different clinical effects, but they are all predominantly related to its ability to regulate the cell cycle, primarily cell division. In this regard, the most sensitive to retinol are the rapidly dividing cells, including keratinocytes and sebocytes in the skin. As for other members of the skin cell community, such as immunocytes and melanocytes, it is not so obvious since these cells are present in the skin in a mature state. The latest research on the effects of vitamin A on melanocytes is described in our editorial article.

Rosacea is a common inflammatory skin condition. The severity of symptoms can depend on many external and internal factors, including nutrition. Certain foods are known to worsen rosacea symptoms, but publications on this topic are often contradictory. To clarify this issue, scientists from the UK have analyzed the available publications on the influence of drinks and foods on the rosacea manifestation. More about this — in the News and Reviews on our website.

Physical plasma-based methods have occupied a unique niche in medicine. They are used for tissue removal (plasma sublimator or plasma scalpel), for wound non-contact sterilization (including purulent wounds), and more recently for skincare due to their stimulating effect. Cosmetic plasma biostimulators use air as a gas source. The air is ionized by a dielectric barrier discharge (DBD) in the air gap between the dielectric layer insulating the electrode and the skin (ground). This produces numerous thin, luminous "jets" like water jets in a shower. This external similarity was the basis for the name of such devices — plasma shower. The essence of the plasma shower is described in our editorial note.

Recently, vitamin D has been constantly in the rumor. There are more and more scientific publications on the relationship of low levels of active vitamin D metabolites with the development of infectious, cardiovascular, chronic inflammatory, allergic, autoimmune, and cancer diseases. It may seem that vitamin D is relegated to the role of a panacea for all diseases. We have tried to address the narrower issue of vitamin D's impact on melanoma incidence and the course of this dangerous disease.

Lack of or poor sleep quality has become a characteristic of modern man. Often, late bedtimes, insufficient sleep duration, and smartphone use before bedtime become bad habits that start in childhood. The negative impact of lack of sleep on the functioning of the nervous system is a well-known fact that does not require discussion. However, it is worth remembering that complex signaling pathways connect the nervous system with all organs. One of the most active participants of such bidirectional communication is the skin. Our new article is devoted to the effect of lack of sleep on skin condition.

Neurogenic inflammation is a pathological process based on bidirectional interactions between cells of the nervous and immune systems involving a wide range of biologically active substances. It is a common link between chronic inflammatory diseases and pathologic skin conditions such as psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, rosacea, and sensitive skin. Our post reviews research findings on the role of neurogenic inflammation in rosacea pathogenesis.