EXFOLIATING ACIDS AND THE SKIN MICROBIOME: BALANCING RENEWAL AND DYSBIOSIS
Hydroxy acids have long been used to promote skin renewal, but their effects on the skin microbiome remain far less studied. In a narrative review, Polish researchers compare how different groups of hydroxy acids affect the epidermal barrier and bacterial communities. Laboratory models show that hydroxy acids can inhibit pathogen growth and disrupt bacterial biofilms. The authors caution, however, against extrapolating these findings directly to living skin: bacteria in vivo are better protected than those in laboratory cultures, sheltered by the skin barrier, biofilms, and pilosebaceous follicles. Excessive exfoliation may also trigger secondary dysbiosis and increase water loss. Which proposed mechanisms are supported by evidence, which remain hypotheses, and how can practitioners preserve microbial balance when using exfoliating acids? Read our editorial review for the full analysis and practical takeaways.