Light-based therapies have long been part of the acne treatment toolkit — yet most of them work by targeting bacteria or reducing inflammation, leaving the sebaceous glands themselves largely untouched. A 1726 nm laser takes a different approach: its energy is selectively absorbed by sebum, enabling precise photothermolysis of sebaceous glands while sparing the overlying epidermis. One-year results from a prospective multicenter study are compelling — 91.5% of patients with moderate-to-severe acne achieved a 50% or greater reduction in inflammatory lesions, with the therapeutic effect continuing to build throughout the follow-up period. Full breakdown and clinical takeaways in our editorial.

When identifying the molecular systems that dictate whether a cell maintains its youth or succumbs to aging, the Hedgehog signaling pathway is a primary candidate. An evolutionarily ancient regulator known for its role in embryonic development, Hedgehog acts as a vital guardian of stem cell niches and tissue regenerative potential in adults. In the skin, its activity declines with age, specifically where it is needed most: in hair follicle stem cells, dermal fibroblasts, and wound healing processes. A new review in Experimental & Molecular Medicine (2026) explores how this pathway functions, the consequences of its "silencing," and why its activation represents one of the most promising frontiers in anti-aging research. Detailed analysis and clinical insights — in our editorial note.

Effective wound healing—particularly for chronic, burn, or diabetic lesions—remains a formidable clinical challenge. One unconventional yet promising approach involves studying amphibian skin secretions. Over millions of years, the naked skin of frogs and toads has evolved under the dual pressure of constant pathogen exposure and mechanical injury, necessitating the production of substances that combine antimicrobial defense with pro-regenerative properties. These substances are short peptides. A comprehensive review published by a group of Chinese researchers in 2026 systematizes data on the discovery, mechanisms, and clinical potential of these molecules, while candidly addressing the hurdles on the road from lab to clinic. Full details in our editorial note.

Atopic dermatitis is primarily considered a chronic inflammatory skin disease. However, a new systematic review suggests that patients with this diagnosis may have a higher risk of osteoporosis and fractures. The authors of a meta-analysis published in Annals of Medicine (2026) found a 56% increase in osteoporosis risk and an 8% increase in fracture risk at all sites. The association was most pronounced in severe disease and for vertebral and lower-extremity fractures. What should be considered in clinical practice, and why do these findings require careful interpretation? We discuss this in our editorial review.

  Interest in dietary collagen peptides as a tool for correcting age-related skin changes is growing rapidly: skincare specialists, dermatologists, and their patients are increasingly turning to oral supplements in search of visible skin improvement. Clinical observations support this effect — yet the question "why does it actually work?" has long gone without a comprehensive answer.A new review by Huang et al., published in Molecules (2026), consolidates the accumulated evidence and offers a fresh perspective on the cellular mechanisms of collagen peptide action — with a particular focus on lysosomes and mitochondria as key target organelles [1].   Collagen peptides and skin: what the evidence shows Collagen is the primary structural protein of the skin's extracellular matrix (ECM). Collagen peptides are short chains of 2 to 20 amino acid residues obtained through the hydrolysis of collagen. A substantial body of clinical evidence has now accumulated regarding their efficacy: a large systematic review with meta-analysis, publishe...

What if the skin does more than shield us from the outside world — what if it directs our immune system? That is precisely what a study published in Nature has shown: in response to stress — infection or UV exposure — keratinocytes trigger a molecular cascade that ultimately drives antibody production in the lymph nodes. At the center of this process is the TRPV3 channel: a metabolite that accumulates in stressed cells binds to it, setting off a signaling cascade that mobilizes dendritic cells and follicular T helper cells. When this mechanism functions properly, it protects against infection. When it goes unchecked, it can fuel autoimmune disease — lupus in particular. For dermatologists and skincare specialists, this reframes the meaning of skin stress: it is no longer just a local problem, but a systemic immune trigger. The full breakdown is in our editorial feature.

Psoriasis is one of the most prevalent chronic inflammatory skin diseases, affecting an estimated 2 to 3% of the world's population. Current treatments are far from ideal: topical steroids cause skin atrophy, immunosuppressants pose risks to internal organs, and biologics remain costly and carry the potential for serious adverse events. Scientists from China have proposed an unexpected solution — emodin (a natural plant-derived anthraquinone) encapsulated in liposomes. Liposomal emodin not only penetrates psoriatic plaques more deeply than conventional formulations, but also enables high-resolution visualization and simultaneous treatment via two-photon photodynamic therapy. Central to its action is targeting the mitochondria of pro-inflammatory macrophages — a mechanism that reprograms the immune response from within. Read the full breakdown in our editorial note.

Skin aging is not only a matter of genes — it is also shaped by the molecules that control how those genes behave. Non-coding RNAs — miRNA, lncRNA, and circRNA — carry no protein-coding instructions. Yet, they regulate hundreds of genes, determining whether a fibroblast will divide or enter senescence, whether collagen will be degraded by UV exposure, and whether inflammation will escalate in the dermis. A major review published in Ageing Research Reviews (2026) consolidates the evidence on how these molecules govern skin aging mechanisms — and which of them are already being considered as targets for therapeutic intervention. Approaches under discussion include exosomal delivery, nanoparticles, microneedle patches, and combinations with established anti-aging agents. Early clinical trials are already underway. Full analysis and practical highlights — in our editorial note.

Cellulite affects 85–98% of women and remains one of the most challenging conditions in aesthetic practice. Topical lipolytic enzymes — lipase and collagenase — have a theoretically compelling mechanism of action, yet their clinical potential is limited by a fundamental obstacle: the skin barrier. Molecules larger than ~500 Da cannot penetrate the subcutaneous tissue on their own to reach their primary target — adipocytes. A team of Spanish researchers proposed an unconventional solution: use a radiofrequency (RF) device simultaneously as a therapeutic tool and as a "carrier" for the enzymes. This pilot randomized study, published in 2026, demonstrated that combining RF with topical enzymes yields statistically significantly better outcomes than RF monotherapy. Full analysis and practical takeaways — in our editorial review.

Why do some scars remain barely visible, while others grow into painful, itchy keloids — and keep coming back even after treatment? For a long time, the answer was sought at the level of fibroblasts and collagen. Today, evidence points to a different scale of the problem: immune dysregulation that not only accompanies keloids but also actively sustains them. Authors of a new review in Annals of Medicine have synthesized accumulated data on the role of immune cells, revealing how they create an environment of "silent inflammation" in which fibrosis thrives, and the cells capable of opposing it are blocked. This opens up new therapeutic targets — from suppressing pro-fibrotic signals to restoring lost cytotoxic immune function. Full analysis and practical takeaways — in our editorial note.

Brittle, slow-growing nails are a concern that patients frequently bring to skincare specialists and dermatologists. The market for supplements promising to address this issue is growing rapidly, yet questions about their real-world efficacy remain open. A recent review published in Skin Appendage Disorders (2025) analyzes data on six categories of nail supplements: biotin, collagen peptides, solubilized keratin, choline-stabilized orthosilicic acid, methylsulfonylmethane, and multivitamin formulations. The conclusion: all have a biological rationale, some show promising preliminary data, but none can claim a robust evidence base. And biotin — the most popular ingredient — carries a non-obvious clinical risk. Full breakdown and practical takeaways in our editorial note.

Skin surface lipids — sebum and stratum corneum components — were long regarded simply as a nutrient source for resident microorganisms. The picture is now far more complex: members of the skin microbiome do not merely consume lipids — they transform them and synthesize entirely new ones, actively shaping the skin's lipid landscape. This relationship runs in both directions. That means the lipid composition of topically applied skincare products can be used to selectively influence the microbial community— and, through it, barrier function, immune response, and inflammatory tendency. A recent review in mSphere (June 2026) mapped the mechanisms of this axis and outlined actionable therapeutic strategies. Full analysis and practical takeaways — in our editorial note.

Essential oils have been used in skincare for thousands of years, yet their molecular mechanism of action remained unknown — until now. A study published in Nature Communications has filled this gap: researchers identified citronellal — an acyclic monoterpene found in citronella oil and several other plant essences — as a TRPV3 ion channel agonist that stimulates keratinocyte proliferation. Atomic-resolution structures of TRPV3 complexes with multiple monoterpenes were obtained for the first time, revealing the precise mechanism of receptor activation. The findings give the cosmetic industry and skincare professionals a concrete molecular target for developing anti-aging and regenerative formulations. Full details are in our editorial feature.

Skin and the hair follicle are more than anatomical neighbors. Both develop from the same embryonic layer, share a common dermal microenvironment, and age through remarkably similar molecular pathways. DNA damage accumulation, telomere shortening, oxidative stress, chronic inflammation, and stem cell exhaustion — all these processes unfold in skin and hair follicles in parallel, forming what the authors of a new review published in Experimental Gerontology in 2026 call the "co-aging axis." Understanding these shared mechanisms opens a fundamentally new logic: targeting both organs simultaneously through common molecular intervention points. Full breakdown and practical takeaways — in our editorial note.

Biotin is marketed as a beauty vitamin and sold over the counter — often at doses far exceeding the daily requirement. Yet few people know that excess biotin can disrupt immune function and produce false results in allergy diagnostics, including specific IgE testing. A review published in Nutrients in 2025 systematizes evidence on biotin's role as a hypersensitivity factor and a source of interference in immunochemical test systems. Full breakdown — in our editorial note.

We know that UV radiation damages DNA in skin cells, triggers oxidative stress, and breaks down the extracellular matrix. But sunlight has another, far less-studied target — the trillions of bacteria living on our skin’s surface. A new study has shown that UV irradiation significantly alters the metabolome of skin commensals, particularly the spectrum of tryptophan derivatives. This, in turn, shifts the signaling between microorganisms and skin cells — specifically, the activity of the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) and epidermal barrier function. This opens an entirely new perspective on why photoprotection matters: sunscreens protect not only skin cells, but also the microbial communities that live on them. Full breakdown of the study and practical takeaways — in our editorial note.

Rosacea is a chronic skin condition that is notoriously difficult to control: conventional treatments frequently cause irritation, laser-based therapies are costly, and impaired barrier function limits the choice of topical agents. The challenge is particularly acute in the papulopustular subtype, characterized by persistent erythema, papules, and pustules. A potential solution is supramolecular salicylic acid (SSA) — an innovative formulation in which the active molecule is bound to poloxamer 407, enabling sustained release and markedly reducing irritation potential. Chinese researchers conducted a randomized controlled trial of 30% SSA in patients with papulopustular rosacea — the response rate in the treatment group reached 68.75% versus 0% in the placebo group. Full breakdown of the study and practical takeaways — in our editorial article.

Glycerol — a familiar ingredient in topical skincare — is increasingly finding its way into injectable hyaluronic acid (HA) formulations. Why add it alongside HA, which already binds water so effectively on its own? It turns out these two substances operate at different levels: HA retains moisture in the extracellular matrix, while glycerol maintains water balance directly inside cells. This division of roles opens up meaningful clinical possibilities — smoother tissue distribution, reduced risk of edema, and additional support for cellular metabolism. How does it actually work, and at what concentrations? See details in our editorial note.

Hyaluronic acid is increasingly used not only in skin care products but also in hair care products. Its presence in the market is expanding; however, its effectiveness in hair care formulations is determined not simply by its inclusion in the formula, but by molecular weight, degree of hydrolysis, combination with other components, and the ability to be retained on the keratin substrate. Low-molecular-weight and hydrolyzed forms, as well as compositions combining fractions of different molecular weights, appear to be the most promising for damaged hair. Of practical interest are both data on increased moisture content and improved mechanical properties of hair and findings indicating reduced frizz and a smoothing effect.

Wound care still requires a compromise: a product should reduce pain, avoid traumatizing damaged tissue during application, remain on the surface, and support tissue repair. A recent study describes a thermosensitive spray-gel with lidocaine and allantoin that is applied as a liquid and rapidly forms a gel at skin temperature. The authors report a suitable viscosity for spraying, rapid gelation, near-complete lidocaine release within 120 minutes, and encouraging in vitro findings in biocompatibility, keratinocyte migration, and TNF-α reduction. However, the data are limited to a laboratory stage. A detailed breakdown and practical takeaways are available in our editorial note.  

Zinc hyaluronate (Zn‑HA) combines the moisturizing properties of hyaluronic acid with the biological activity of zinc, making it of interest not only in cosmetics but also in wound therapy. In a new article, the authors examine how the physicochemical properties of this HA salt change and why this is crucial for gel formulation. Special attention is given to clinical observation: in 23 children with superficial facial burns, the average reepithelialization time was 7.9 days, with no signs of infection and short hospitalization. The discussion compares these results with previously published data on other dressings. Analysis of the study and practical highlights — in our editorial note.

Managing nonsegmental vitiligo remains one of the most challenging tasks in dermatology: even with standard therapy, visible repigmentation is slow to appear, and predicting who will truly respond to treatment is difficult. In a prospective study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology (2026), the authors compared early changes in the skin and blood with 6-month outcomes. They demonstrated that a decrease in specific populations of tissue-resident memory T cells, Tr1 cells, and the FABP4 protein could serve as potential markers of response. We explore what the researchers measured, which signals were linked to repigmentation, and how this data can benefit practitioners. Research breakdown and clinical insights are in our editorial note.

Psoriasis is no longer viewed as a purely “skin” condition: systemic inflammation is linked with cardiometabolic risks, while clinical practice still lacks specific markers of disease activity and treatment response. In this context, lipidomics (a branch of metabolomics) has emerged as one of the most promising tools. Modern mass spectrometry techniques make it possible to identify which lipids in psoriatic skin change in class and structure, how the proportions of ceramides, fatty acids, and inflammatory mediators shift, and how these alterations relate to barrier dysfunction and transepidermal water loss. We review which lipid signals are considered candidate biomarkers and how these data may influence diagnosis, monitoring, and therapeutic decision-making. Analysis of the study and practical insights are available in our editorial note.

Tattoo pigment does not remain isolated in the skin. As a foreign material, it can trigger an immune response—most often localized, involving regional lymph nodes, but in some cases extending beyond the skin and becoming systemic, including presentations in sarcoidosis. In a review article (Eur J Microbiol Immunol 2026) that included 33 publications, the authors traced clinical scenarios, diagnostic approaches, histopathologic findings, and outcomes of these conditions. We break down why tattoo pigments can mimic malignancy, what forms of lymphadenopathy are described in the literature, and which questions remain unanswered. Details — in our editorial note.

Up to 60% of variation in visible skin aging traits may be linked to genetics, but actual manifestations are strongly shaped by the exposome: UV radiation, pollution, diet, stress, and lifestyle. A DNA skin profile (SNP-based DNA profiling) helps identify inherent tendencies in advance: susceptibility to dryness and barrier dysfunction, hyperpigmentation, accelerated collagen breakdown, reduced antioxidant defense, and microinflammation. This provides clearer guidance for skincare selection and procedure planning: who should focus first on barrier repair, who needs stronger photoprotection and prevention of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and who may benefit from antioxidants and anti-inflammatory ingredients. Full details are in our editorial review.

Dapsone has long been familiar to dermatologists, but systemic use and concerns about adverse events have largely shaped its reputation. Against this background, the topical format is of particular interest: the same active substance, but with a different safety profile and clinical positioning. A recent review brings together data on dapsone 5% and 7.5% gels, examining which patients respond best, how well the treatment is tolerated, when it should be combined with retinoids, and why the topical form may be a more practical option for routine acne management. Statistics, limitations, and clinical takeaways — in our editorial note.

Chronic wounds often don’t follow the “textbook”: standard steps are in place, yet healing remains slow, tissue is fragile, inflammation persists, and infection risk stays high. In these cases, clinicians look beyond dressings and debridement to controlled increases in oxygen availability within the wound bed. Topical oxygen therapy delivers oxygen directly to the wound surface and relies on diffusion—without systemic pathways. We review which phases of healing depend on oxygen, when the method is appropriate as an adjunct, how intermittent and continuous approaches differ, and why monitoring (moisture, wound bed preparation, vascular status, device performance) largely determines outcomes. Full analysis and practical takeaways are in our editorial note.

Hyaluronic acid injections are considered a routine and controlled procedure, yet they can lead to rare complications that require timely recognition. A recent paper presents a clinical case of localized hair loss following HA filler injection in the frontal region and reviews 19 similar cases from the literature. The focus is on early ischemic signs, the role of hyaluronidase, treatment options, and preventive strategies to reduce the risk of irreversible damage. See details in our editorial note.

The search for safe drug formulations for psoriasis remains highly relevant, as the condition requires long-term management and existing therapies are often limited by side effects. A recent study introduces an original topical exosome delivery system: the secretome of mesenchymal stem cells is integrated into a hyaluronic acid matrix, which is then lyophilized into a dry sponge. Before application, the sponge is moistened with water, converting it into a gel with strong bioadhesive properties and enabling convenient self-application at home. Clinical data demonstrate improved skin barrier function, a 41% reduction in plaque size, and excellent tolerability. A full analysis is available in our editorial feature.

Conventional therapy for flares of atopic dermatitis often relies on topical corticosteroids. However, their long-term use is limited by the risk of adverse effects, including skin atrophy and disruption of the microbiome. The search for safer, supportive strategies has led researchers to explore dietary collagen. Until recently, its benefits were supported mainly by individual clinical observations without a placebo control. In February 2026, the Journal of Skin Pharmacology and Physiology published the first double-masked, placebo-controlled study evaluating the effect of oral collagen peptides on barrier function. Full details are in our editorial review.

Oleogels are drawing increasing attention from skincare specialists and dermatologists as a convenient topical base that combines lipid comfort, good structural stability, and the ability to work with volatile lipophilic compounds. In early 2026, the journal Gels published a substantial paper by a research group from Colombia that examined how the composition of the oil phase, the type of gelling agent, and microstructural features influence oleogel properties, their ability to retain essential oils, and their biological behavior. Here are the main points and conclusions.

Current scientific evidence calls for a re-evaluation of the classical model of the skin barrier, which has traditionally focused on the interfollicular epidermis. Indeed, a recent study by a group of US researchers demonstrates that the hair follicle is not merely an appendage of the skin, but rather its active regulatory center. It has been experimentally confirmed that the upper part of the follicle modulates regenerative processes in neighboring epidermal areas, controls desquamation and sebum secretion, and may also serve as a source of pathologic cells in ichthyosis. To find out what mechanisms allow the follicular apparatus to regulate the homeostasis of the entire skin surface, read our new publication.

Skin immunity is not limited to immune cells alone. Growing evidence shows that structural skin cells, including adipocytes, actively participate in regulating inflammation and protecting against infection. They secrete cytokines, adipokines, and antimicrobial peptides, influencing both cellular behavior and barrier function. This shifts how we view chronic dermatoses: even when the stratum corneum appears restored, inflammation may persist at deeper levels. A mini-review in Frontiers in Immunology explains how adipocytes are integrated into the skin immune system and why this matters for clinical practice. The main points of this publication are outlined in our editorial note.

Rosacea is more than redness — it often includes burning, flushing, and heightened skin sensitivity. Increasingly, this condition is viewed through the lens of neurogenic inflammation, which involves interactions among nerves, blood vessels, and immune cells. A recent review highlights that gamma-aminobutyric acid (GABA) derivatives — gabapentin and pregabalin — may reduce the neural activity underlying these symptoms. This is a systemic approach that affects both the central and peripheral nervous systems. How this works, what clinical evidence shows, and when it may be relevant — in our editorial note.

Glycation is a key mechanism of skin aging, in which advanced glycation end products (AGEs) degrade collagen, trigger inflammation, and induce oxidative stress. Natural polyphenols can counteract this process, with hydroxytyrosol—a potent antioxidant from olives—deserving special attention. Researchers at Peking University investigated whether hydroxytyrosol could protect the skin from accelerated aging caused by a high-AGE diet. The mouse model experiment showed that a high dose of the compound restored skin moisture, epidermal and dermal thickness, increased hydroxyproline levels (a collagen marker), normalized antioxidant enzyme activity, and reduced proinflammatory cytokines. A separate discovery was its effect on the intestinal barrier: it restored tight junction protein expression, highlighting the role of the gut-skin axis in its protective action. Full details and practical takeaways—in our editorial review.

In February 2026, the International Journal of Molecular Sciences published a review on mitochondria-targeted biophysical priming of autologous biologics for skin regeneration and wound repair. At first glance, this may seem far removed from everyday aesthetic practice. In fact, it speaks directly to issues skincare specialists face every day: photoaging, loss of firmness, wrinkles, and slower tissue recovery. The authors propose a new way to think about autologous materials: their clinical value may depend not only on their contents but also on mitochondrial function. In this feature, we explore why this matters for anti-aging practice and which physical conditioning methods are currently considered the most promising. A closer look at the study and its practical implications is available in our editorial note.

Biofilms remain a major cause of chronic wounds and antimicrobial treatment failure: bacteria within these structures are protected by an extracellular matrix, exhibit metabolic heterogeneity, and can demonstrate resistance levels far exceeding those of planktonic cells. In this context, membrane-active antimicrobials—including peptides, peptidomimetics, polyphenols, and other compounds—are attracting growing interest due to their ability to disrupt bacterial membranes, interfere with cell-to-cell communication, and weaken biofilm structure. A recent review examines both these molecules and pharmaceutical strategies that improve their stability and efficacy in topical delivery systems. Full breakdown in our editorial note.

The combination of hyaluronic acid with amino acids is one of the most discussed trends in modern biorevitalization. A new 2026 meta-analysis summarizes a decade of clinical experience with these formulations, providing objective data on how the addition of glycine, proline, and lysine affects wrinkle depth, dermal thickness, and epidermal growth factor (EGF) expression. The article examines histological results confirming the biostimulatory potential of these products, alongside methodological limitations of the evidence base, including the issue of "extreme heterogeneity." This analysis evaluates how the diversity of formulas and protocols impacts the predictability of aesthetic outcomes in clinical practice. See details in our editorial note.

  New goals for cross-linked hyaluronic acid application The understanding of hyaluronic acid's potential in aesthetic medicine has expanded significantly. While cross-linked hyaluronic acid was previously associated primarily with volume restoration and the correction of deep folds, today more attention is being paid to its impact on skin quality. This concept encompasses a combination of characteristics, including hydration, microrelief smoothness, pore visibility, and the overall visual perception of the skin surface. This is the core idea behind the study under discussion [1]. The authors questioned whether low-cross-linked hyaluronic acid fillers could be used not only for volumization but also to improve skin quality, specifically to reduce the appearance of enlarged pores. To investigate this, the study compared two products: a cohesive polydensified matrix hyaluronic acid (20.0 mg/mL) and a similar formula additionally containing glycerol (17.5 mg/mL). The choice of glycerol was based on its properties as a humectant; earl...

Skin aging is traditionally viewed through the lens of aesthetic changes; however, in 2007, the term "dermatoporosis" was proposed to describe a syndrome of chronic cutaneous insufficiency and fragility [1]. This condition goes beyond cosmetic defects and represents a serious medical problem associated with the loss of skin protective functions. Topical application of retinaldehyde and intermediate-size hyaluronate fragments (50–400 kDa) significantly reduced the number of p16Ink4a-positive senescent cells in the epidermis and dermis of dermatoporosis patients, leading to significant clinical improvement. Full breakdown — in our editorial note on the website.

Vitiligo is often viewed as an autoimmune skin disorder, and some patients have antinuclear antibodies (ANA) on lab testing. But does ANA positivity mean phototherapy will work less well—or carry higher risks? In a prospective cohort study published in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment in early 2026, researchers examined whether ANA status affects the effectiveness and tolerability of 308-nm excimer light therapy for vitiligo when combined with topical agents (and, in highly active disease, oral prednisone mini-pulse therapy). Here is how the groups differed, which areas repigmented differently, and why the authors suggest that low-titer ANA usually does not require changing standard management. Full analysis and practical takeaways in our editorial note.

  The link between sleep and skin condition is increasingly being discussed, but in trichology this factor has long remained in a secondary role. Meanwhile, sleep disturbances potentially affect several systems important for the hair follicle: inflammatory and immune regulation, stress response, and circadian rhythms. The authors of a systematic review published in Dermatology and Therapy (Heidelberg) in November 2025 collected and summarized data on how sleep problems are associated with different variants of hair loss — from alopecia areata and androgenetic alopecia to telogen effluvium and scarring forms [1].   How the study was organized The work was conducted as a systematic review according to PRISMA (Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analyses)—an international reporting standard for systematic reviews. The authors searched PubMed and Scopus (October 2025) for publications without date or language restrictions, using terms for alopecias and sleep disturbances. A total of 474 articles were identified; ...

Traditionally, hormonal acne treatment has been associated with systemic medications, which carry various restrictions and side effects. However, the development of topical antiandrogens is opening new possibilities for targeting the disease's pathogenesis directly within the skin. The focus is on clascoterone 1%, the first FDA-approved drug in this class, as well as on experimental topical formulations of spironolactone and flutamide. In our new editorial note, we examine the rationale behind this approach, the results of key clinical trials, and the role of topical hormonal therapy in modern treatment protocols. We explore the efficacy of these new formulas and identify which safety questions still require further investigation. Full breakdown — in our editorial note.

Have you ever noticed that wounds heal differently depending on the time of year? Clinical statistics confirm that regeneration is faster in spring and autumn than in the height of summer or the depths of winter. But why does the skin react to temperature this way? A recent study using mouse models and skin tissue-engineered equivalents has revealed the secret of "ideal cold." It turns out that local cooling to 20°C acts as a metabolic switch. It activates the ELOVL4 enzyme, which triggers the synthesis of valuable omega-3 fatty acids — DHA and EPA — directly at the site of injury. These molecules suppress excessive inflammation (TNFα) and literally "push" the wound from a prolonged inflammatory phase into the phase of active cell division and vessel growth. Scientists have identified the precise temperature window that accelerates epithelialization and improves tissue recovery. Research breakdown and practical highlights — in our editorial note.

Patients with keloids and hypertrophic scars often present with lower 25(OH)D levels, and vitamin D is widely discussed for its role in inflammation and wound healing. However, observational studies don't answer the key question: is this a cause, a consequence, or a result of confounding factors? In a 2025 study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, researchers used two-sample Mendelian randomization to assess the causal relationship between serum 25(OH)D and the risk of keloids and hypertrophic scars. The findings may shift expectations regarding vitamin D supplementation as a preventive strategy for pathological scarring. Research breakdown and practical insights — in our editorial note.

For several years, exosomes have been recognized as one of the most promising directions in aesthetic medicine. Today, they are viewed as a versatile “cell-free” tool for skin rejuvenation, used in a variety of formats – from topical serums to complex microneedling protocols. This interest is biologically justified: exosomes are nanovesicles that carry proteins, lipids, and nucleic acids and directly participate in inflammation, extracellular matrix remodeling, and tissue regeneration. In early 2026, Cureus published a systematic review that analyzed all human clinical studies available by late 2025 that used exosome-based products for aesthetic skin rejuvenation. The review discusses exosome sources, treatment formats (topical use, combinations with microneedling and energy-based technologies, other options), measured endpoints, and the safety profile. At the same time, the authors emphasize a key issue: the evidence base remains fragmented, most studies are small, heterogeneous, and short-term. Exosomes look promising, but it is ...

Acne scars are notoriously difficult to treat, requiring deep dermal action while minimizing the risk of complications and downtime, especially in patients with darker skin types. A recent study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology describes Synchronous Ultrasound Parallel Beam (SUPERB) technology: high-intensity, high-frequency, non-focused ultrasound creates multiple "cylindrical" zones of controlled thermal injury (approx. 60–70°C) in the mid-dermis. The epidermis is preserved through integrated cooling and real-time skin temperature monitoring. The authors retrospectively evaluated the results of a single treatment for acne scars: 3D analysis showed an average reduction in depression volume of 23–27%, with moderate pain and no reported adverse events. Full study breakdown and practical insights are provided in our editorial note.

Keloid scars remain one of the most challenging problems in aesthetic medicine due to their tendency for continuous growth and high recurrence rates. Traditionally, they have been viewed as a result of excessive fibroblast activity, but a new study reveals an unexpected player in this process—melanin. The authors demonstrated that elevated pigment levels in keloid tissue are not merely a cosmetic defect but an active driver of fibrogenesis. Melanin triggers cellular iron overload and confers resistance to ferroptosis—a specific type of cell death that normally should limit scar overgrowth. The researchers identified a complex network of interactions between melanocytes and fibroblasts that sustains the pathological process. These findings pave the way for novel therapeutic approaches that target melanogenesis to control scar growth. Full breakdown in our editorial feature.

The skin's ability to recover without scarring is a unique feature of the intrauterine period that is lost after birth. Full-thickness injuries—whether surgical incisions, burns, or severe acne—often leave behind persistent deformities, pigmentation, and chronic inflammation. This process is influenced by genetic predisposition, health status, and environmental factors, meaning the skin often requires assistance. In search of agents that could bring postnatal healing closer to the intrauterine model, scientists have turned their attention to amniotic fluid. In 2025, a paper was published in the journal Annals of Case Reports describing the first cases of using purified amniotic fluid to heal facial abrasions and recalcitrant acne without scarring or pigmentation [1]. Read our editorial note to learn about the potential mechanisms of action of this biological resource, its clinical potential, and its limitations.