HYDROXYPINACOLONE 9-CIS RETINOATE: A TRETINOIN ANALOG "WITHOUT IRRITATION"
Tretinoin (9-cis retinoic acid) is an effective anti-photoaging agent. Still, it is classified as a pharmaceutical drug: excessive activation of the RARγ/RXR receptor causes irritation, erythema, and heightened skin sensitivity, which is why tretinoin is not used in cosmetics. The search continues for retinoic acid derivatives that retain efficacy while being better tolerated by the skin, and one promising candidate has emerged — hydroxypinacolone 9-cis retinoate, a synthetic tretinoin analog with an unusual bent molecular structure. A new study using a photoaging model shows that this compound restores collagen and elastin synthesis, normalizes the skin's cellular composition, curbs excess pigmentation, and does not cause irritation. In a clinical trial, its effect was comparable to or exceeded that of retinol. Full details in our editorial note.