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RETINOL (vitamin А) IN SKINCARE PRODUCTS

Book series COSMETIC CHEMISTRY FOR DERMATOLOGY & SKINCARE SPECIALISTS

E.I. Hernandez Jimenez, E.V. Krasnei

Digital (Russian Edition)
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  • Publisher: Cosmetics & Medicine Publishing
  • Format: eBook
  • Pages: 220
  • Language: Russian
  • Publication date: Aprel 15, 2024
  • Product dimensions (WxHxD), cm: 16.5 x 23.5 x 1.0
  • ISBN/ISSN: 978-5-901100-86-8

The presence of retinol in a cosmetic formulation is a significant competitive advantage and immediately attracts the attention of a potential buyer. It is well deserved — retinol has a long history of use in medicine, backed by decades of scientific and clinical research that continues to this day. The dermatological era of retinol began in the early 1970s with the treatment of acne, and in the 1990s, it was recognized as a means of treating signs of skin photoaging. Today, oily skin, acne, age-related skin changes, and uneven pigmentation are the main indications for using cosmetic products with retinol, which are successfully used as monotherapy or as part of complex skin care programs.

Unlike most cosmetic ingredients, whose action is realized on the skin surface and within the stratum corneum, retinol and its derivatives easily pass through the skin barrier and reach living skin cells. Living cells represent the target for retinol, as this substance is a physiological regulator of gene expression in cell nuclei. Both therapeutic and toxic effects of retinol are associated with this specific mechanism of action. In order not to cross the line and not to encounter adverse events when using retinol-containing products, it is necessary at least to strictly follow the recommendations on permissible doses and take contraindications seriously. Even better, it is essential to understand how retinol works at the cellular level to understand what is associated with this or that clinical effect. These are the questions our book is devoted to.

We discuss not only the chemical nature of vitamin A, which includes several chemical forms (retinol is only one of them), but also how it enters our body, what transformations it undergoes, what happens to it in the cell, and how the cell reacts to it. All these details are important to predict the clinical effect in different situations, whether it is treating a skin pathology or correcting an aesthetic problem.

The section devoted to prescription features of retinol cosmetics presents interesting, helpful, and rare information. It tells about cosmetic forms of vitamin A and their dosages, their combination with other components, and the practical subtleties of making and using cosmetics with retinol. Special attention is paid to cosmetic ingredients marketed as alternatives to retinol.

When using cosmetics with retinol, it is essential to consider the dietary intake of vitamin A to avoid undesirable dermatologic phenomena associated with an overdose of this substance. This book deals with this issue separately.

The book is intended for skincare practitioners, dermatologists, cosmetic chemists, beauty advisors, cosmetic consultants, and all those interested in skincare, health, and beauty